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672364 No.3513955

Hey folks. It finally happened: My PC broke down for good. That's also why you don't see any updates from me anymore :(

it started a few months ago with irratic BSODs, but now the main power supplay thought it would be funny to fry mainboard, onboard gfx and Hard Drive T____T

So I cannot continue anymore. Unless you help me with a very very smol donation?

If you feel like it, you could support me on

Any help is extremely appreciated! There are so many ideas still to realize!



should've started saving money as soon you saw hardware-linked BSODs. from there, to get money, invest in the hardware and sell enough commissions ot fund it back.

and invest in a backup, external hard drive. it's better and cost like, 50bucks a tera?



Thats why you always get quality branded power supplies.

Get a Seasonic, PC Power & Cooling or SuperFlower based ones.




What are your minimum requirements? I might have some spare hardware, we can talk trade and I'll handle the shipping costs if you aren't hugely far. Sound fair?


That sucks. Get quality hardware this time.


Your work is rather nice. Why is there so little of it?

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The kind of 3d graphics you do (in terms of apparent polycount and assumed rendering times) would be comfortable to work with on a 2013-2015 ish used hardware. Now better and later means higher viewport fps and shorter rendering times, but hey, go only as expensive as you can afford.

How about you salvage what you can (I assume case and possibly RAM) and set up a temporary workstation out of ebay parts. You can then upgrade at your leisure in time.

I'm not gonna pay for your new computer, mate, that ain't happening.


>>3513984 A good power supply should last for decades and through many upgrades. If your system needs 400 watts, buy a 800 watt power supply from a reputable source and brand. Seasonic makes some of the best, bar none. Over-provisioning a power supply means it is never stressed, produces less heat, is more efficient and it allows for degrading over time. If you upgrade your power supply every couple of years then sure, buy a $15 Sparklefun failbox and have fun but if you are interested in a buy once and use for years deal, then spend the extra money now. Also, a UPS is well worth the investment as they never let the power supply ever see anything but pure, clean power that is completely disconnected from the shitastic powerplant mains.


Also note, the conspicuously cheap "budget" PSUs have shitty capacitors in them that will die in a couple years. And a quality PSU should rarely ever fail in a way that kills the hardware connected to it.


PSU is the one part you do not save any money on by going with a cheap one. Make sure it is not to oversized and go for some seasonic, corsair or something similar.

Don't go cheap on the ONE thing that EVERYTHING is hooked up to.

Same goes for mainboard but to a lesser degree. since those actually do have a wide variety of features you may or may not want or need so pricerange is much wider.


For power supply considerations, doubing up is not the best option because bigger power supplies have higher idle power consumption and heat up your room more.

An 800 Watt PSU can use 100 Watts to idle - the efficiency of it goes down the less current you draw, so for a 400 Watt peak load you only need about 5-600 Watts for a power supply. Only buy 800 Watts if you're buying cheap Chinese PSUs where you can't be sure they can handle the load.


or the other end of the spectrum, a prosumer 800-1200watt PSU that does scaling down efficiently. These things are expensive as heck though. You're good if you have a good source of these used, post-leasing etc, but only buy new if you're rich.


Somehow I think Voxell isn't very serious about this, otherwise I would think he'd have jumped on my free hardware offer by now. It's like offering a bum food when he asks you for money to get something to eat, and they turn down the food and want the money instead. Usually, that means there's something else they want the money for.

Gonna have to look at this through a narrower slit filter, now.


Also if the hardware is down, how he managed to make the render if the decapitated head?


That sounds like a conspiracy theory.


>>3514117 A power supply does not draw 100 watts at idle, if it does there is something very wrong. Take any power supply and plug it into a Kill-A-Watt power meter on the mains side then don't plug anything in on the output side and then connect the jumper to turn it on. If you are seeing 100 watts then you need another power supply. The PSU supplies power as needed by the system plus a small amount to run the fans if it has them plus a small percentage due to inefficiencies and power needs of the PSU itself. A higher capacity PSU isn't going to draw significantly more power than one that is exactly matching the peak wattage of the system. A computer is going to draw the power it needs no matter if it has a 200 watt PSU or a 1000w PSU. The 1000w PSU will cost a lot more so the law of diminishing returns applies but the extra operating overhead is basically insignificant especially if you consider how much longer that 1000w PSU should operate. Yes, efficiency drops the larger the PSU is compared to the load but we are talking a few pennies a month running 24/7.

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>A power supply does not draw 100 watts at idle, if it does there is something very wrong.

Not necessarily. Big MOSFETs have big gate capacitances, which need to be charged and discharged to switch them on and off. The PSU is constantly running the switch at a steady frequency, and adjusting the duty cycle to meet the load, which means it's consuming a more or less a constant amount of energy - except when the load is so low that the oscillator simply turns off, which brings us to the next point.

> Take any power supply and plug it into a Kill-A-Watt power meter on the mains side then don't plug anything in on the output side and then connect the jumper to turn it on. If you are seeing 100 watts then you need another power supply.

First of all, a Kill-A-Watt is shit for measuring PSUs because it's designed for non-reactive loads and it's inaccurate for anything with a power factor not close to 1. Secondly, a PSU with -nothing- connected is not running normally, so the synthetic test fails. It's actually simulating a standby/suspend state of a computer where it's not supposed to be drawing more than 1-2 Watts if it's following regulation.

ALL PSUs drop in efficiency at low loads, until the load drops low enough that they shut down the main switching circuitry and just run off of the small auxillary converter. When you load them up again, the main SMPS turns on, and starts consuming power itself. If you have a 1000 Watt PSU running at 100 Watts - 10% of the rated power - the efficiency will be on the order of 50% which means 100 Watts for the computer, 100 Watts for the PSU, and 200 Watts total from the wall plug.

The problem is that modern computers idle really low. A setup that has a peak power draw of 400 Watts can drop as low as 40 Watts, so if you pick a PSU that's too large it's going to waste more power than the actual computer just browsing the web.


Besides, if you run a PSU by jump-wiring the green cable and connect some small load like a fan to it, you're still not going to get a good reading with a Kill-A-Watt, because the PSU starts to turn the main oscillator on and off and that completely confuses the meter.

Nearly all computer power supplies are based on the Push-Pull topology, because it allows you to make the various voltages at the same time with a single transformer core with multiple output windings:

These circuits run at around 100 kHz so they can push a Kilowatt of power through a transformer the size of a matchbox. It wouldn't work at normal AC frequency. The trouble is, switching big transistors at 100,000 times a second takes a whole load of energy, so this topology is useless if you just want a couple dozen watts out of the power supply.


Thank you for all the support!

I'm sorry I can't react that fast - I only have my phone to be online.

To all the questions why I was capable of creating that OP pic: I did that at a friend's office workplace.

And yes, I had a half way current backup.

And thank you for the offering of older hardware, but my PC that died was also 10yrs+ and I really need to invst in some current hardware somehow to avoid running into the issues again.


My PSU has a 12 year warranty. Suck it.

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Well as a mostly observer, I only want to add this:

-I have 3 AMD based backup pc, as my family never sells anything

-Only one pc died literally, and it was because the mother board had a shit VRM + no heatsink on it, it literally burned down (tho I was lucky to shut it off in time, only the MB died. It was a mini-ITX Trinity Apu Asrock build)

-I can recommend Chieftec (iarena) PSUs as budget but good category

In case your plan of hatting together a fortune (as Memory and Vga prices):

Get a used Dell Optiplex 780 or better. That half sized case version could take my old Asus Ati EAH HD5670, so you dont have to go for the shit "low profile" vga-s.

Ofc this if you cant make something like a Ryzen or Intel (Pentium G4560) based machine, sadly those works mostly with ddr4.

Good luck!


Like I'd ever give you money, you fucking piece of shit. I'm glad your shit hardware is breaking down. It's not like we need more of your half-assed garbage renders and repulsive character designs shitting up the place.



distinguish idle from sleep. Sure no PSU draws 100W if your computer is, say, in suspend-to-RAM sleep mode. But I mean stuff like just desktop, web browser, reading crap on the net. No heavy 3D, no hard computations. The usage should be below 200W. Just CPU at 3% load, hard disk spinning, RAM, fans. If you have a crap PSU you'll be pulling good 350W or so.


Some need to know in many countries the price of a new decent computer is around a years pay.
Though of course look carefully when people ask for help, best to weed out the liars so the people that really need help with their potential get a proper boost.


>>3514276 If you are making less than $2000 a year then the internet, making 3D rendered art and a computer are the least of your worries.


I would have proposed an unused office PC I built but never got it used, and as i upgrade my current desktop i put the less recent parts into it.

Athlon 860K, 4 gigs of DDR3, A58 chipset, 9800GT reheated, and i even can provide a decent Amstrad PS/2 keyboard and a HP LP2465w professional, calibrated monitor. DVD, card reader and WD blue 650Gb

except right now it sounds like it's booting but nothing displayed I gotta check this before propsing a price.



lol, talk about triggered.

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