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File: 1340438434-seagate-backup-plus-1-terabyte-portable-hard-drive-for-109-1.jpg - (106.51 KB, 1500x1500) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.
109067 No.3512080

I bought the pictured 1 terabyte "auxiliary memory" for $50, it is still quite the upgrade, my first IBM had a 10 mg hard drive.

Today I saw at Best Buy a hard drive, 8 terabytes for $170!

What's next?


Marveling at the falling costs of disk storage is such a dated thing man. I remember coming up with a crude formula for the decline of price per GB as a kid in like the 90s.

>my first IBM had a 10 mg hard drive.

That's surprisingly light for a hard drive.


Ext hard drives suck, most are soldered/wired into the USB connector for planned obsolescence, so now I have like 4 useless 1TB USB 2.0 drives too slow to do anything useful nowadays cause no USB3/SATA and can't get em out of the damn enclosures. I got totally Jewed.



sorry you bought western digital :/


what about using these for like, system back-ups?
the larger the hard drive the slower it is, if you want speed or cache in your software get a ~500 Gb WD or Toshiba. Get a terabytesque for your back up and porn and downloads.

also it's not planned obsolescence, if you want mobility, get some USB stick, or a HDD in an enclosure. WD passports and these maxtors are designed to help you back-up precious stuff and get stored on your bookshelf, or plugged in somewhere behind your TV/stereo or as a NAS.

Finally, 8TB on a 2.5"format HDD? that's a lot, but are the data on it guaranteed to stay and not have any loss?



>the larger the hard drive the slower it is

Spinning hard drives get faster the bigger they are because the data density is increased, while the RPM remains the same, so the head sweeps over more bytes per second.

Server drives have lower data density because they're designed for higher RPM and faster seek times. The tracks need to be wider so it holds less data per platter.

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>What's next?



More like Western DiJewtal amirite?


Western Digitals are shuckable and aren't garbage unlike Seagate.


There's nothing wrong with Seagate, just avoid the models/line they bought off from Maxtor and you're good.

Maxtor went under because they were having repeated reliability issues and callbacks, so they sold the whole thing to Seagate. Seagate then tried to make Maxtor's drives under its name for a while and fix the issues, but ultimately couldn't so they dropped the whole thing. The ones that come from the old Maxtor factories/product lines are coded STM- while Seagate's own designs are coded ST-.

Maxtor was the shit they put in every clone/supermarket PC, which ended up breaking with the "bling of death", where the drive's controller chip overheated and started banging the read head against the platters, making a distinct "blik blik blik" noise.

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I have WDs from 10 years ago still running fine, almost all my drives are WD. The only one that failed I mailed in on warranty and got replacement no questions asked. The soldered USB interface on externals is the only real downside. It's real jew move.

Meanwhile both maxtor and seagates have failed on me a few times each and lost tons of good data on one.

(god this board sucks)

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I've never had a Western Digital failure on me and they're pretty much all I use at home. Two WD Greens. Four WD Reds. Likewise, I've never actually had a Seagate failure, which are found come pretty commonly in the computers we buy at work. Relatively small business though, so small sample sizes all around, but enough for me to conclude that no matter what you buy, so long as it's not a shitty off brand, it DOESN'T FUCKING MATTER.


Because of these results I bought 3TB HGST drives. 1/3 Drives has bad sectors after only 3k hours and 500 spinups.
The drive is still running after 6k hours with 85 bad sectors, but at least for me the low failure rate does not apply.
As always no backup no pity...


Have you checked the SMART readings for temperature?

Many make the error of buying a HD and then mounting it up with rubber grommets - they're designed to dissapate heat out through the sides - in a crappy cheap computer case with no fans for the drives. Then comes summer, temperatures hit 65 C and the drive starts to fail.



I have a Western Digital from an external HD that failed a few years ago.... I lost like decades of furry art. Only the motor failed but its not recoverable....



Find donor drive, uhh... clean room transplant, transfer files off ASAP, ??, profit!


Changing the motor is a lost cause because you lose alignment of the platters to each other and have to perform a low-level format to get the sectors to read right, and even that is no longer possible in most cases because there's some data on the platters that the drive needs to read to boot up the firmware, so it can only be done at the factory. When professional recovery companies do it, they put the platters in a modified drive with firmware designed to just dump the raw data off of the platter and then some software reconstructs the tracks and sectors out of the signal.

A cleanroom isn't absolutely necessary in these sort of rescue operations as long as you're not spinning the disc while it's open. If a particle of dust lands on the platter, it gets blown away and ends up in the little white cushion inside that works as a dust trap.

Though the bigger problem in trying to swap a motor is that you're most likely unable to get the motor and platters out without special tools and/or dismantling the entire read head assembly which puts it out of calibration as well. It may work if there's only a single platter in the drive.


Oh, and then there's the issue that when the drive is assembled at the factory and the platters are bolted down on the motor, they're never perfectly centered because there's a tiny tolerance gap between the platter and the hub so it fits on. When you unscrew it from the hub and screw it back on the other motor, the tracks of the original low-level format end up wobbling around a different center and if it's too eccentric the head may not be able to track it any longer.


Drill into the motor and hook up an external motor?


I don't see how you could drill in so perfectly. You have to drill out the original seized bearings and then attach the new motor to the old hub at its original center, which is now anyone's guess since you bored through it.



>It helped of course, average HDD temps dropped from 41C to 35C just adding that small fan in front.

41 C isn't a problem for hard drives. That's just paranoia.

Normally when the HD is bolted on both sides to the steel chassis, there's no need for extra cooling fans. The problems start when you have plastic drive caddies/mounts or rubber vibration dampers on the drives which work as insulators. Then the drive works for a while, until it gets stressed on a hot day and the temperatures spike and it ages the equivalent of six months in an hour.

Sometimes this happens because of cargo cult engineering in the case design, where cheap manufacturers simply copy the noise isolation solutions from more expensive models, but leave the fans out. Sometimes it happens because people do their own mods and add aftermarket noise isolation kits without understanding they also need to fit in a fan.



> I've had a few that did not label airflow direction with an arrow

That's because it should be fucking obvious. Computer fans frankly do not vary in this respect - if you have a special fan where the blades are curved backwards and the motor spins the other way around, please do post a photo. I have not seen a single one, ever.


Though sometimes it happens that the motor spins the wrong way, but that's a defect and not a design. The fan should always blow towards the concave side of the blades.

The motor is a 3-phase motor run by a simple microcontroller, and if somebody crossed one of the phases in manufacturing, maybe they accidentally flipped the motor core in the wire winding machine, or fucked up the switching sequence in the firmware, it can run backwards.

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Temperatures are no problem, the HDDs get hit with air from the front fans.
The Toshiba DT01ACA300 is a rebranded HGST/Hitachi HDS723030BLE640
Probably just bad luck...

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Consumer grade fans are two phase motors, without µC and only a hall-sensor for brushless commutation.
Enterprise hardware indeed has often a µC (like this one with a PIC16C712) but normally for spin up (start at low speed, after 10 sec running at full speed), and overcurrent (if rotor is locked) protection. The Motor is still the 2 phase type.
A single phase motor is also possible, for example with the ROHM BU6906 hallsensor/driver-IC.


Same thing applies. Someone flips the phase wiring and the motor runs backwards.

A pure single phase operation is not possible, because you can't control for the direction of the motor - it spins whichever way it happens to start, if it starts at all. Those phase sensors are actually used as a pair to make two or more phases.

One possibility for a single phase motor is a shaded pole motor, in which the second phase is generated by a short-circuited coil. These aren't used for computer fans because they're highly inefficient and powerless for their size.

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