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55834 No.3502466

Anybody got info/tutorial/pointers how to make a high quality penetrable toy?

All the "DIY fleshlight" guides on the net are about using socks, pringles cans, corn starch and the likes. I'd like to make something closer to Bad Dragon quality. Primarily, what is the material it's made of?

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Look into the various products "Smooth-On" happens to offer. They are a prop and special FX material company. All else is just trial and error until you can form your own personal workshop. This will require some counter space.

Look into mold making as well.



Food grade two component liquid silicone rubber.

Something like this:

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One problem with these (this >>3502485 too) - hardness. They would be okay for a dildo, but way too tough for a penetrable toy.

Shore hardness 40A is about the hardness of a rubber eraser. Enough to bruise your dick. Most of these sealants / mold making materials are in the A scale. A good penetrable pussy should be around 10-20OO shore hardness.


yeah, looks better. Though with shipping it's near $80 for me. If it's for making masks, it must be non-toxic at least; food grade would probably be suitable for baking molds.



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Former Bad Dragon employee here.
Sorry OP, they got that shit on lock.

If you're interested in paying me a cool five figures, I'll tell you everything you need to know to make your first toy BD quality.


OP. I'd say use the softening additive and make yourself some trial batches. Use an ice cub tray and mix in differing amounts of softening additive in each cube to find your correct ratio. Do your measurements in grams to keep the math simple.

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Go for the gold Lulz!

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They made a very nice custom made renamon.


That honestly looks pretty good. Shame about the inflatable shit. I'd rather buy a well made renamon sex doll not inflatable


True. But then there is the problem of the price going way too high and having to store the dam thing once you are done with it.


>>3502974 [+] hot

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There is a guy I follow on Tumblr that has prototyped, developed, and now fabricates toys for his Etsy shop:

He's currently working on building a prototype of a duel-hole Dragon vag/anus toy (see pic).
Give his tumblr a read, you might actually learn a thing;

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I'm more curious to what exactly are you trying to build. Are you trying to stick your dick in your own fursona or something?

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If you're just looking to stick your dick in something that just feels good and won't immediately bite you or accuse you of rape, you should try a Tenga Flip. It come in two different textures:

Or the Flip Zero, which has a better entrance hole and is a little easier to clean:

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Tenga is garbage, especially if he has the money to drop on non-fifi tier shit. I own a fliphole black as my first penetrable and I thought it was great too until I used an actual Japanese onahole. The gold standard right now I think is still the Tomax Venus Clone in soft or regular firmness. The only thing Tenga has going for it is State side distribution. It uses a metric ton of lube ($$$), has poor materials, awkward to hold, is a PITA to clean, the black is too tight for me as an average Western male, it aged like shit (hardened interior), and is overpriced. Bad Dragon like the OP is talking about is also overpriced garbage materials, the only thing they have going for them is the aesthetics if a human exterior is really going to make you limp and you need a husky cunt. If you want maximum pleasure then get a good American sized Japanese hole like a Meiki or Tomax with good materials. My Tenga has also lasted 3 years with only minor cosmetic damage and 4+ hour long edging sessions at times.



>100 USD

I guess still cheaper than dating for some of you lol.


Just a mare pussy.



> It uses a metric ton of lube ($$$)

get a powdered soluble lube. One small bottle can produce a gallon of lube or so, and costs as much as a tube of normal lube. It's a bit of a bitch to mix, will leave small clumps no matter what, but they will dissolve over a day or so (so prepare a day prior). Plus prepared shelf life is about a month, so you can't prepare one huge batch to last you years; need to make small batches and re-make as previous batch runs out.

So far I used two caps (less than a teaspoon) of it to refill the 150ml dispenser twice.



Pros and Cons to working there? Why'd you quit? Juicy Drama and the likes plez!

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If you're not familiar with molding and casting, I recommend watching this video as an introduction to molding and casting:

There are a lot of good videos on making dildos from Candiru/Average: (process is similar to making penetrables)

From what I get, you need to make a pattern internal texture and a mold for the outside of the toy. You then need to find a way to keep that texture aligned in the other mold, pour silicone* in, and you should have a penetrable toy.

Right now, I'm making dildos right now as a hobby. I'm planning on eventually making a penetrable toy. But dildos are easier, so I'm starting with that.

I'm planning on having an auction for some premade dildos. I should post updates on my tumblr when I have the time. All my contact info is at

Once I find an easy method of making a penetrable and I actually get it done, I'll post updates on my social feeds.


>food grade on title
>says industrial grade in pic

The only body safe silicone I know of, is platinum cured, and that comes in a Part A and a Part B - not a tube.

Agreed, Tenga is shit and there are also a bunch of fakes. I don't even think they use platinum cured silicone. I want to say they use some type of soft PVC so they're less sanitary due to the material being porous

Dirtyinternettoys has interesting toys and he's semi-open about how he does it on his tumblr. He's not as clear and communicative on how he gets his work done compared to someone else like Average. He uses something known as matrix molding, which is a pain in the ass from the looks, but it looks like it's the "right" way to do it if you want to conserve silicone for the mold.

*As many anons have said, look for platinum-cured silicone, as that is considered body-safe and is also marketed as "medical grade". You also need to consider the shore hardness. For a penetrable toy, I would not recommend anything greater than shore OO-30 (Shore OO scale is different than shore A). You may want to get shore OO-20. I don't know if shore OO-10 would be too soft. For smooth-on series, look into getting ECOFLEX series for the cast, and if you're looking to make a silicone mold of something like Smooth-on's MOLDSTAR series. Use a lot of mold release.



> For a penetrable toy, I would not recommend anything greater than shore OO-30 (Shore OO scale is different than shore A). You may want to get shore OO-20. I don't know if shore OO-10 would be too soft.

This in large part depends on thickness of the toy itself, diameter of the penetrable hole when loose and whether it's "open" or encased in hard plastic (a'la fleshlight). A thin, loose sleeve of OO-30 will feel softer than a tight narrow hole through a block of OO-10 encased in a hard tube.

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That's definitely worth keeping in mind. I'll probably won't make my [first] prototype with plastic cases due personal preference + additional cost & labor. I still think I probably shouldn't use anything much firmer than shore OO30. Final firmness may vary based on factors such as elevation, so you may want to experiment with trial kits. Shore hardness is still good rough estimates for final firmness. You may be able to try shore OO50 + silicone thinner to get something slightly more firm than OO30.

It looks like Bad dragon uses OO20 for their extra soft firmness used on all of their penetrables, and I've never had any complaints.

YiffyToys uses shore OO50 for the insertables, and it seemed a little too firm for me. (Also, Eagerfox lacked enough texture to justify itself)

Looking at Smooth-on's spec sheets, it seems that the lower the hardness of the silicone, the more fragile it is. So, I would be more hesitant to use shore OO10.


One problem with the thinner is it considerably reduces durability. And while it's not much of a problem in common use, I found the most efficient, fastest way to clean the toy is to turn it inside out after washing the outside, which is rather straining on the toy.

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What toys are you cleaning? All mine are too thick and simply impossible to turn inside out, so I usually insert a small soap bar in it and run scalding hot water in it.

It is true thinner does decrease the overall strength of the toy, but so does getting silicone that is softer to begin with. Smooth-On says that no more than 10% thinner can be added, so you'd be restricted on how much you can add.
For clarification, I talking about silicone thinner, not the silicone softener >>3502497 posted


two cheap, but rather nice chinese off-brand toys.

Ok, i admit mixed up thinner vs softener.


Soft clone kind of sucked IMO. Lilith uterus was a little better, but honestly no onahole comes even remotely close to Succubus 2D Wavy Ripple in soft. Or maybe medium if you're cut and need the extra stim. And it's only $25-ish.

Honestly zero reason to buy anything more expensive, certainly no reason to try to mold your own when perfection already exists. Only thing that could make the 2D Wavy better is a uterus for extra vacuum action and some thicker walls. You only have one dick, may as well treat it to the best every time you unzip.

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